I saw one of Adam Savage's One-Day Builds, where he created an “Infinity Rhombic Dodecahedron” by using two-way mirrors to form the faces of a solid, with LED lights running along the interior edges. I thought I could do something similar. However, a rhombic dodecahedron is a complicated shape, so I started with a cube.
Learn about laser cutting and physical assembly.
Practise surface mount soldering.
Created a Cube instead of a Rhombic Dodecahedron, to manage scope by keeping the shape simple.
Adam had a hard time shoving the LED light strips into the dodecahedron and an even harder time making all the electrical connections because of mixing up the VCC/GND when three ribbons meet at a point. I solved this problem by creating a custom PCB for each edge, with terminals radially symmetrical so that GND goes down the middle of the PCB and VCC travels along the edges. Then you can flip the PCB any which way and it will still line up with its neighbours.
My implementation could have been better but it was an effective solution.
To avoid the tricky part of sealing everything inside and having it be tight as well, I installed the lights in a wooden frame and then set the mirrors in the frame after.
Initially the frame was going to be 3D printed but this turned out sloppy-looking and I found out my printer needs much better calibration.
Modelling took place as an iterative process of drawing things up in Blender, trying to laser-cut (or 3D print) the box, inspection, and adjusting the model. Eventually the following design emerged.
6mm Baltic Birch
3mm Acrylic
Black PLA
Two-way stick-on film that you get to make windows block sunlight.
Glues: Wood Glue, Hot Glue, Epoxy (2-part Gorilla Glue)
Spray paint, black.
PCBs, assembled.
LIttle jumper wires to stick the PCBs together, and solder.
Power connectors, VCC 5 Volts
The cube will have a nominal dimension of 10cm but actual outer dimensions are subject to change.
The inner dimensions will be 95mm x 95mm x 95mm.
The plexiglass windows will be 90mm x 90mm x 3.175mm.
There shall be some kind of lip for the window to rest on when it’s seated in the window.
PCBs are 85.09mm long, 7.62mm wide, and 1.6mm deep. The points of the PCB have an angle of 109.5 degrees, so that three PCBs can be joined at right angles to each other with no gaps.
OSH Park requires that PCBs are minimum 0.25in wide.
The smallest possible cube that can enclose the PCBs is 92.7409mm ^3.
PCBs will thus have approximately 0.5mm wiggle room between each other and the wooden wall.
Plywood will be 5mm birch and have only one outer cube.
The prism rest provides a triangle 6.5mm tall, 6.5mm wide with a 9.2mm diagonal, ensuring enough space for both lip and board support.
Rest of geometry was calculated carefully to ensure a close fit, but allow for about 1mm of wiggle room.
Put the wood box together.
Seat in these angled prisms, which will
hold the PCBs at 45 degrees to the cube faces and 90 degrees to each other, and
provide a lip for the windows when they are placed in the cutouts in the frame.
Drill a hole in one of the corners to run a 2-conductor power wire.
Install the PCBs, solder and test.
Place the mirrored windows in the frame, and fasten with epoxy glue.
The circuit on each PCB is your usual underwhelming LED with resistor but 4 of them in parallel. In the circuit diagram, resistance calculations hadn't been completed yet.
There are 12 of these per cube; therefore there are 48 LEDs per cube.
Component Selection
Early on, I recklessly decided to use 0805 footprint devices because I already had a PCB design for that I could easily modify. This ended up working fine, but I should have considered using larger footprints for brighter, lower-power LEDs in case that was going to be necessary.
LEDs were selected for low current, clear-white colour and low cost. I ended up settling for:
LED: IN-S85AT5UW / LED WHITE CLEAR 0805 SMD
Resistor: RMCF0805JT180R / RES 180 OHM 5% 1/8W 0805
Combining the datasheets for these devices, the following model was used to determine the resulting current draw per light:
The current through the resistor and LED were plotted as a function of voltage across LED. At the intersection point, the currents and voltages all work out so that Ohm's law is satisfied on the resistor, the IV curve is satisfied on the LED, current through each component is equal, and voltages add up to 5V. From this, the current per each R-LED circuit is about 0.0107A, which is a bit higher power than the LED was designed, but still reasonably within spec.
Safety calculations included:
Voltage for LED within limits
Current for LED within limits
Power for resistor within limits
PCB Traces wide enough for total current
Power draw appropriate for entire system.
PCB design followed suit from the schematic. Some comments:
The VCC pad was placed behind the GND pad at each point. This gives the PCB rotational symmetry and makes it easier to join 3 of them at a corner.
In future, there could be 2 VCC pads; one on each side of GND, and that would make it even easier.
The PCBs are 3.35 inches long and 0.3 inches across, since I couldn't figure out how to work in mm.
I can't remember how I worked in the 109.5 degree angle at the point. It may have been an approximation.
OSH Park requires that PCBs are 0.25inches minimum.
Send away PCB design for fabrication.
Using OSH Park and JLC. I paid extra to OSH Park for fast shipping, and JLC still got me my boards only 1-2 days later, at 10% of the cost. OSH Park didn't even include a sticker!
3D-print the PCB rests using black PLA.
Laser cut the box, and windows. Glue box together and sand.
Drill a hole for the power cord in one corner.
Insert the PCB rests and glue in place.
Paint the cube black.
When PCBs arrive, assemble circuits and test.
Carefully insert each PCB into the cube, and solder in place to each board's neighbours. Test as you go.
Laser cut the acrylic squares. Keep them as clean as possible.
Apply the reflective film to each square. Best to cut the film in advance, and allow a slight clearance between the edge of film and edge of acrylic.
Insert each mirror into the cube, film-side-in, so that the mirror rests on the 3D printed rests and is neatly fitted in the cube. Fasten with a drip of epoxy in each corner.
Prepare a stand of your own design, and a CSA or UL-certified power supply to power the cube.
Testing was performed in several stages:
after completing each PCB edge
after inserting and solering each edge into the cube
after completing the cube frame
after installing mirrors.
Tests involve turning the system on, and making sure that the power/current draw matches the expected value. For completed cube and frame, leave it on for a few days and try bumping it around as well.
Things to Consider
Investigate making a truncated octahedron instead of a cube.
Consider getting the one-way-mirror acrylic from Amazon or some expert dealer. It’s expensive but might help with organization.
Consider laser cutting the squares with the film already applied. It may make mirror application easier.
Instead of PCBs, use LED strips but design mini-pcbs to adapt the strip to fit onto the corner junction.
Will future shapes use the wood frame? Or is there a way of assembling everything on just the raw acrylic next time?
Choose your PCB components before ordering the PCB to avoid disaster with trying to get the right footprints.
Put the contacts for VCC on each side of GND, instead of behind it.
Leave the protective film on your acrylic as best you can before cutting.
Have a deliberate plan to apply glue without making a mess.
The wall wort power supplies you use in the end may not be exactly 5V.